Wheel deflection questions

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Wheel deflection questions

Postby aj``` » September 13th, 2016, 10:43 am

I suppose I should have asked this question here, rather than another "general" forum.

Anyone with 'experience' on the Clyde build?

I'm a biggish dude. Winter weight ~200
Fighting weight in the summer ~190-slightly less than 200
Used to be 300, but that's another story.

I've moved to my first new (secondhand) TT bike. It's a '14 QR Kilo c.
Still using the factory Shimano R500 wheelset with 24 spokes.
I'm getting some lateral distortion if I put some weight/force on the pedals going up the hill.

I'm hoping that the Clydesdale build on either the carbon (or carbon/alum, which is where I'm leaning) would potentially mitigate that? I'm a completer, so I have no problem adding a few extra grams. It's not a question of Clyde/not Clyde build. It's a question of....barring any unknown issues with the make/model of the frame, should I be relatively worry free in taking the plunge?

Anyone with experience in this arena? I know every bike, rider, wheelset is different. I've seen some reviews of the R500 where a few people had the same issues as I have, but it doesn't appear widespread. I've yet to try dropping the tire pressure, but I'm usually under the rated max to start with, checked for cracks in the frame/etc.

I figure I just want new wheels. :) Hopefully I won't have the issue with some Flos (likely carbon/alum). 60/90? 60/60....havent' decided yet.
But, most importantly, I have decided on the colors of the decals.
aj```
 
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Joined: September 13th, 2016, 10:28 am

Re: Wheel deflection questions

Postby Chris Thornham » September 14th, 2016, 9:47 am

aj``` wrote:I suppose I should have asked this question here, rather than another "general" forum.

Anyone with 'experience' on the Clyde build?

I'm a biggish dude. Winter weight ~200
Fighting weight in the summer ~190-slightly less than 200
Used to be 300, but that's another story.

I've moved to my first new (secondhand) TT bike. It's a '14 QR Kilo c.
Still using the factory Shimano R500 wheelset with 24 spokes.
I'm getting some lateral distortion if I put some weight/force on the pedals going up the hill.

I'm hoping that the Clydesdale build on either the carbon (or carbon/alum, which is where I'm leaning) would potentially mitigate that? I'm a completer, so I have no problem adding a few extra grams. It's not a question of Clyde/not Clyde build. It's a question of....barring any unknown issues with the make/model of the frame, should I be relatively worry free in taking the plunge?

Anyone with experience in this arena? I know every bike, rider, wheelset is different. I've seen some reviews of the R500 where a few people had the same issues as I have, but it doesn't appear widespread. I've yet to try dropping the tire pressure, but I'm usually under the rated max to start with, checked for cracks in the frame/etc.

I figure I just want new wheels. :) Hopefully I won't have the issue with some Flos (likely carbon/alum). 60/90? 60/60....havent' decided yet.
But, most importantly, I have decided on the colors of the decals.


Thanks for writing. Our clydesdale build wheels are rated for riders up to 242lbs so you will certainly be ok with respect to weight. To my knowledge the Shimano R500 wheel isn't the stiffest wheel on the market, so if you are really pushing it out of the saddle it's likely going to give you some lateral distortion.

All that said, any wheel is going to distort laterally by some amount. The stiffer the wheel is, the less it will distort, but that doesn't mean you still won't get lateral movement. I know that sounds counterintuitive, but let me explain.

A frame and wheel are a system. As with any system, it's only as strong as it's weakest link. I'm not familiar with the Kilo frame but I'm guessing it's not the stiffest frame out there. So think of it this way, you have a wheel that is not that stiff, and a frame that is not that stiff. When you apply pressure to it, both the frame and the wheel deflect. When you put a really stiff wheel on that same frame, the frame quickly becomes the weakest link and under load, the frame deflects even more because the wheel isn't deflecting as much as the old wheel. In some cases the apparent issue may become worse because when the frame flexes more, a different problem can occur. As an example, when the frame flexes more, maybe that causes your brake pads to rub, or the wheel to rub on the frame.

Now, if the Kilo is a stiff frame, and all of your issues are coming from a wheel that simply isn't stiff, then adding a stiff wheel like the Clydesdale version of our wheels to the equation, will certainly help.

I hope that makes sense.
Chris Thornham
FLO Cycling: http://www.flocycling.com
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Chris Thornham
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